Showing posts with label Makeup. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Makeup. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 27, 2020

L'oreal Infallible 24H Fresh Wear Foundation Review

I've sworn off foundation ever since discovering BB creams. Back in the day, in my most insecure period, I used to cover my face with the thickest foundation available: Revlon Color Stay (the original version, newer versions are runny and just not as cement-like.) And then I switched to cream foundation, only to discover that my pimples were caused by makeup residue inside my pores. That's when I promised myself to never go back to foundation - cream, liquid and whatnot. I figured I'd just take care of my skin instead and cover it with as little product as I can bravely put on.

I also decided to stop using brushes, sponges and applicators. You just can't clean them enough. I'd be paranoid reusing brushes, even newly-washed ones, that I'd find myself buying new ones. I'd hoarded dozens. And because that's insanely expensive, I figured I'd ditch applicators and use my hands in applying products. This does not go well with powder which I learned to put on using cotton balls.

And so we're here. I have absolutely no idea why I have a L'oreal Infallible 24H Fresh Wear Foundation hiding rather sadly in a corner of my vanity table. It's not expired. It's manufactured in late 2018. I probably bought this in 2019. It's mid 2020 now and I have not touched this bottle until today.

I don't know why I have it. First of all, it's super thick. Second, you can't apply it with bare hands.



I probably bought this for an event. Ha. Yes, I'm beginning to recall snippets. Yes, I bought this for an event. I thought I'd need something that would last for 24 hours, or at least something that wouldn't make me look like a muddy mess mid-event.

I guess I was looking for something that was like Revlon Color Stay, but not exactly as cement-like as it. And this was satisfactory. I'm applying it again today as I write.

What it promises versus what it delivers:

24H Fresh Look  - Ok, so I have not tried wearing this on my face for 24 hours, and I have no plans to do so. Sleeping with makeup on is a nasty habit and should not be done by anyone even those with  immaculate skin. The 24-hour part, I can't disprove. But the fresh part is true. I recovered photos of the event I bought this for, and I didn't look like a muddy mess.

Longer Lasting - Longer lasting than what exactly, we'll never know. But it does stay on pretty long. It's also difficult to take off. I remember having had to use both Cetaphil and oil to remove it. I have just used 5 rounds of cotton balls and grape seed oil, and then soap just to remove all traces of it on my face.

Covers imperfections - It's thick enough to cover discoloration, but its consistency does not work really well with uneven surfaces, dry spots, and active pimples. It does, however, look okay in photos. I'm guessing this would work specifically with a good liquid foundation brush (pictured below). I applied it with a stippling brush and it's just too thick so it came out patchy. A beauty blender could work also, but then it will most likely thin it out, so coverage can suffer a bit. Try to experiment with different applicators.

No transfer - it does transfer a bit, so nope. I tried patting down shine with tissue paper, and some pigments transferred with oil. It's not as bad as cream foundation transfers, so it's still ok. Just not something I'd recommend if you'll be kissing a lot of faces or sweating at the gym.

No shine - I still got shiny. And it wasn't the nicest sheen. It was sticky shine. 

No dry out - okay, this, it does deliver. Despite its thickness, it does not feel cakey. It doesn't feel like wearing an actual mask made of chalk. It feels like you have a cream-based sunscreen on. 

No mask effect - yep, as mentioned above, it does not feel like a heavy chalk mask. It also does not look horrible in photos. 

Do I recommend it? 

Well, I obviously now have my biases against foundations so. There's a reason this bottle has remained unused on my vanity table. It's gathered dust. It's not a horrible product. The shade I got, 20 Ivory, is perfect on my skin, but it oxidizes a little. So. Meh.

I honestly do not get all the hype around this foundation on Facebook groups and online shopping sites. If this were released at the time when I was into the whole "overly done, heavily covered" look, I would have loved this more than I did Revlon Color Stay. But now that I know what I know (BB Creams are gentler, lighter and fresher), I honestly can't recommend this. Sorry.


Redeeming quality ~ this is the closest thing you can get. You're welcome. 

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Bought makeup again. I feel dead. I hate myself.

I had been veeery thoroughly weighing my options as to where and what makeup to buy for my yearly stash update. I've thrown out a dozen or so products to make space for new ones. For weeks I had been contemplating whether to buy a classic foundation or to try cushions, a trusted lipstick or to try matte lip creams. I ended up going on a (mis)adventure and making a ton of regrettable decisions along the way.

Now with my heart broken and my pockets empty, allow me to recount my weeks of impulsive purchases. 

Seriously tho.

  • FACE BASE - Revlon Colorstay or Chica y Chico Matt Fix
    • Pond's BB Cream have satisfied my coverage needs for the past 3 years since my pregnancy to my breastfeeding period. And because I was mostly at home, in church, or running errands, I didn't need all that coverage, oil control, and sun protection. As soon as I went back working, I realized I needed an actual foundation or just something heavier. 
    • I decided to buy Revlon Colorstay out of sheer laziness. It's easier to buy from an actual store than online and get scammed or wait too long and risk the product getting damaged during shipping, I thought so cleverly. I regretted it as soon the foundation touched my face. Why is it that when we remember the past, all we ever see are the good parts and never the bad? I used Colorstay for a few years in my early 20s. I remember it staying on my face from morning til after school, from lunch til after party. I failed to remember how it felt like cement, and how sticky it got by the end of a long day and how it might have caused pimples. The SA also gave me a shade too dark - a reminder that I'm no longer as fair as I used to be, anxiety:increase. That's P850 down the drain.
    • Upon realizing I made a horrible decision, I resolved to buy Chica y Chico Mat Fix. I still have P650 to spare anyway. It's perfect for oily skin, they said. It's perfect for the Philippine weather, they said. It erases pores and blemishes and fine lines and anxious thoughts, they said. I will never know because the money I allotted for it went to Naturactor Cover Face. I... passed by a stall in Fairview Terraces and I just had to purchase something.
    • To be fair, Naturactor Cover Face did not disappoint. It was on my face the whole day yesterday through rain and sun and sweat and pollution. It survived PGH, Quiapo, MRT, and a bus ride. Even if it looked like I covered my entire face with concealer, it felt light like I wasn't wearing anything on my face at all. I bought it for P780, it sells for P500 online, and P700 in Trinoma. What is wrong with me?
  • LIP PRODUCT 
    • I love Sophie Paris Lipstick in Summer Pink. It's the right shade of Barbie and I've been donning the Barbie look for most of the decade. I didn't realize that when I stopped wearing my hair blonde (due to pregnancy and breastfeeding), pale pink doesn't work anymore for natural hair and natural skin (Pond's BB cream). So I figured I needed a new lipstick THAT ISN'T PINK.

    • The Revlon stall where I bought Colorstay had a promo going on where you get a lipstick for P99 if you purchase a face product worth P500+. I just had to buy. Wanna know what shade I chose? Revlon Super Lustrous Matte in SKY PINK
    • I also bought a lip product when I bought Naturactor at a stall in Fairview Terraces. Colourpop Ultra Matte Lip in SOLOW. And because it's completely impulsive, I had no prior research as to whether what I bought was real or fake. Paranoia covered here. I, in all my intelligence, chose this shade:
  • FACE POWDER - Ben Nye or 3W Palgantong or Innisfree Sebum or Shiseido 
    • I've been thinking haaard about where to buy setting powder. My makeup artist friends swear by Ben Nye Luxury Powder in Banana but I just can't seem to understand all the hype. It looks thick, heavy, and chalky to me. I almost bought one in the Terraces stall, but my total was reaching P2,000 so the working part of my brain finally took over. I feel relieved that I didn't buy it because it turns out that Ben Nye was FAKE. Original Ben Nyes don't come wrapped in plastic. Ugh.
    • I bought 3W Natural Makeup Powder instead. I've fallen in love with it the first time I saw its ads on facebook. I mean, of course I don't expect it to actually deliver all its claims (how on earth can white powder make your face slimmer??) all I'm after is its finely milled powder with tiny shimmers. That always works to make skin look flawless and healthy. 
Take my money.
Now, this would have been a non-regrettable decision, except I've always wanted to buy shade #10, the translucent one that makes skin look pearl-white. Next choice would have been shade #21 - my skin tone. But the stall only had shade #23... which of course I bought.
I got the one for "common Asian women"
    • As much as I want to blow more money on Innisfree and Shiseido, both with awesome reviews online, I can't anymore. Because. I'm. Officially. Broke.

  • OTHER STUFF THAT MADE ME BROKE
    • All sorts of whitening products
      • RDL Bleaching Soap - this worked on me once upon a time
      • Likas Papaya Soap - cult classic
      • Kojic + Alpha Arbutin Soap package of three - I give up. How many times do I intend to shower in a day??
      • Green Peeling Oil - I saw the price and thought what the heck might as well buy
      • Tretinoin + Hydroquinone - I could not get over the fact that the Revlon SA gave me the 3rd lightest shade, I've always worn the LIGHTEST shade, you can't do this to me, Revlon.
      • Lactacyd Baby Wash - Lactic Acid for my face
      • Kyosoku Bihaku Glutathione - bringing out the big guns.
      • More vitamins
    • Other products bought out of random insecurities
      • Eye Cream - I used to be mistaken as a 19 year old. I now get mistaken as 23. This can't happen. No.
      • Pond's Age Miracle Night Cream - I refuse to age. I refuse to.
      • St. Ives Oatmeal Scrub and Mask - I have two other St. Ives Scrubs I do not use. What is wrong with me?
I feel horrible. I feel dead inside. I feel dead.

No, actually. I need to start listening. 

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Is my colourpop fake??

I bought Colourpop Ultra Matte Lip in Solow during a hapless episode of impulse buying. I've read raves about it online but because my makeup routine has always focused on skin-perfection, I never really bothered with lip products. I also do not have the prettiest lips, my lips are boring, normal, okaayy so they never really had my attention. So buying Colourpop, a rather risky product, is completely out of character even for me on a shopping high.

I categorize it as risky for several reasons:
  1. Lip products expire easily. While face and eye products usually last for 2 or more years, lip products only last for a year at most. This goes especially for products packaged like Colourpop UM. The wand picks up bacteria after every application and then dips all that bacteria back into the product. Yuck.
  2. The whole matte oversized lip trend is well, a trend. I'm usually the last person to follow trends. I fancy myself classy so I'm never one to jump head on as soon as Hollywood promotes a new makeup fad. I wait for at least half a year before experimenting. This is because I hate seeing old pictures and realizing how I've become a fashion victim from donning a look that looks horrible outside its trendy context. Also, this gives me proper time to observe how well a trend looks on faces with features similar to mine. 
  3. I mean, this looks good now. But come 2020 how would kids be making fun of the parched, shriveled, raisin-y look?
  4. Because it's trendy, there are tons of fakes out there. Which I've fallen victim to.
I was in Fairview Terraces to get my hair rebonded. (BTW, Headway Vera Salon did an awesome job! Best rebond I've ever had. My hair is shiny, smooth, has volume and looks completely natural. My hair was dry, wavy, and the ends were rubberized - they're miracle workers, I swear.) So I was there completely not intending to go makeup shopping. I was about to go home even, when I passed by a table of makeup for sale. There was a signage that said "US ORIGINAL PRODUCTS" and the products seemed legitimate. I mean, they weren't cheap, and sometimes when you're not very smart, you get convinced that when something is expensive, it must not be fake. 

There were Revlon, CoverGirl and other US drugstore products that didn't look suspicious. They were reasonably priced, too. I once sold makeup from my cousin from the states and so I know products like that are really sold that way. There were more expensive products too, and by expensive, I mean Estee Lauder and other designer makeup priced like designer makeup. I had a hunch though that the Ben Nye powder was fake (turns out it was! Good thing I doubted whether the small bottle of chalk was really worth P500!) I ended up buying an overpriced 3W Clinic Natural Powder in the wrong shade but still works for me, and an overpriced Naturactor Coverface in the wrong shade too but works somehow too. My heart was uneasy the whole time I was at the stall, I didn't want to part with my P1,600 but I was already there and I figured online shopping posed the same risks anyway so. 

Since I wasn't really meaning to buy lip products, Colourpop especially, I did no prior research about what fakes look like compared to originals. I absolutely had zero idea about how much Colourpop is supposed to cost. It was a matte lip pencil that originally caught my attention. It was worth P150 (same price as Avon/Sophie Paris/Maybelline which have good quality lip products) so I thought it's safe to get one. But the SA was good at what she does and convinced me that Colourpop Ultra Matte Lip was a better product (doesn't dry lips, and stays on even after eating...) It's worth P300 so I thought, okay, what's P300 anyway? She attempted another upsell to a Kylie worth P450 (!) but I doubted that it's priced THAT cheap so I settled for a Colourpop.

Again, I had no idea about how much Colourpop costs. All I knew was that it's cheaper than Kylie products because they're the generic version. More like, Kylie is the repackaged, overhyped, overpriced version. And I was sold on the promise that they won't dry my lips AND they'll stay on after meals. I'm all after a simplified beauty routine.

IS MY COLOURPOP ULTRA MATTE LIP FAKE??

I'm getting my resources from this very informative blog: GLENDABELLE.COM


Looking at the box, a non-observant buyer won't notice anything suspicious. Fonts are okay. Kerning are okay. Spelling and grammar are okay. All the basic stuff are okay. 


The Made With <3 in the U.S.A. print looks normal. I read online that the fake ones are printed lopsided or in black. 


The closing flap is shaped like the original - like a U with angles. The fake ones are rounder. 


The top of the tube is also shaped properly - rounded. The fake ones are flat, the tube can stand on it.

The unembossed part (the rectangle around the "ULTRA MATTE LIP") is spaced properly. The fake ones are awkwardly spaced right around the letters. 


See, you can't really tell. China-made fakes are usually glaringly fake. But I guess this one that I got is what they call "Class A", which makes me even angrier.



Some blogs say genuine Colourpop Ultra Matte Lip shades are printed only in white. Some say some are printed in black. This temporarily gave me hope.


However, the shade label on the tube itself is black too. And I could not find a genuine tube that does not have a shade label in white.


The inner part of the tube top should also have teeth. This one is smooth. 


Bloggers say the genuine thing has "pearls" at the bottom of the tube. The fake ones have clear bottoms. As you can see, mine does look like there are "pearls", it's def not clear but the "pearls" are not convincing.


By the time I've crossed out 90% of signs that my P300 Colourpop Ultra Matte Lip might be fake, I felt a sense of relief. Until I opened the tube again and realized that the mouth of the tube is PLASTIC. The genuine ones online looked clear. 

SO, IS MY COLOURPOP ULTRA MATTE LIP FAKE??

Unfortunately, it is. Something that's 90% authentic is still fake.

One fool proof way to tell is the scent ~ the original ones have no scent. The fake ones smell like chocolate/cocoa/cinnamon.







Thursday, July 28, 2016

Makeup Primers for Extremely Oily/Rough Skin

Let's start with a short history of my skin. I've had trouble skin since the early 2000s. I'd say that any given day during my teens, I'd have at least 2 active pimples on my face. My skin cleared up when I reached my 20s. After a few good years of acne-free skin, I've since dealt with the wreckage - gigantic pores, pits, scars, dark spots and general roughness. It also doesn't help that I have veeeery oily skin, so any foundation/powder combination that covers all my secrets would start to melt into goo in a matter of 4 hours. The only stuff that worked was Revlon Colorstay foundation. But even with that foundation (it promises 24 hours of no-melt coverage) my initially flawless makeup would still look muddy after 6-8 hours of wear.

Why must gorgeousness be so short-lived for the oily-skinned?
I'll discuss the foundations and powders and setting sprays I've tried in a separate post. For now, I'll review the foundation primers I've tried so far.

What are primers? Makeup primers are essentially similar to paint primers - and here's what paint primers are, according to google:


Depending on the formulation, makeup primers are used to smoothen the skin so foundation can go nicely over it. Mattifying primers are for oily skin, they work to absorb sebum and sweat so foundation can last longer. Moisturizing primers are for dry skin and helps smoothen flaky skin so foundation can go evenly on the skin. Primers for mature skin work to blur fine lines and make the skin look more plump and youthful. Color-correcting primers neutralize uneven skin hues, for example, green color correctors cancel out redness; purple ones cancel out sallowness. Some primers are skin issue-specific such as the cult-favorite Benefit Porefessional and Mary Kay Oil Mattifier.

Stuff I've tried:

1. The Face Shop Phytogenic Infinite Makeup Base (Green)


I bought this because they no longer sell the silicone-based primer I used to buy from them. I did no prior research and was pretty meh when I purchased this. I used it as an alternative to their Lovely Me:Ex Makeup Base in Lavender which I used mainly to brighten my sallow skin (effective but felt sticky on my skin, plus it didn't help with oiliness). I do not remember being happy with this purchase. Or being unhappy. It's a forgettable product. I've used it less than ten times, which does not justify its price. I've only learned today, upon searching google for this product's photos, that this is actually a makeup base for oily skin! Had I known, I probably paid more attention to it. All I remember was that it smelled nice, made my skin look whiter (note: not brighter!), and that it felt dry and thick - because it was a mattifier after all ugh why didn't I notice that? I was judging it for faring quite meh as a brightener when it was actually a mattifier!

Consistency: Liquid foundation-like
Price: About P800
Repurchase: Yes
Promises delivered: Mattifying, Color Correcting
Promises not delivered: Brightening

2. Elianto BB Balm



It's the circle one. I am still in mourning for the demise of this product. It's the first BB I've ever tried, and this, along with the cream from the same line, gave me the nicest, prettiest finish I've ever seen on my skin. This balm helped with oiliness, pores, lines, spots and sallowness - helps with everything, because true to its name, it's a miracle product. I remember buying an emergency tub because I left mine at home and just could not go to work without it on my face. Elianto pulled out of the Philippine market in 2011 and no longer sell this product even in Malaysia. Shame. People started asking if I had foreign blood when I started wearing this, it's that crazy good. 

Consistency: Pearl cream-like
Price: About P500
Repurchase: Yes!
Promises delivered: Mattifying, Brightening, Smoothening, Perfecting!
Promises not delivered: none. except it disappeared from the market with no warnings or explanation.


DEAR ELIANTO,
PLEASE TAKE MY MONEY
AND SELL THIS PRODUCT AGAIN.
YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW MUCH
IT CHANGED MY LIFE.
XX


3. Mary Kay Oil Mattifier 

This product is effective for controlling oiliness. But it's important to note that this does not really work well as a primer, it's more like a mattifying lotion. This works for those with clear skin who battle with midday shine and stickiness. For the rest of us who can not be seen by the world without foundation or BB cream or powder, this is not a good product to use. It makes foundation feel and look chalky. I tried letting it dry first before putting on foundation, I tried using different foundation consistencies with it, I tried putting it after foundation and after powder, but nothing seemed to work. It's just not formulated to mix well with anything, it seems. Although I've read reviews saying this works well as a primer.

Consistency: Moisturizer-like
Price: About P700
Repurchase: No.
Promises delivered: Mattifying,
Promises not delivered: Blendability with other products.

4. Maybelline Baby Skin Instant Pore Eraser


This product's such a disappointment. Benefit Porefessional was all the rage when this came out. I was elated and excited because I love Maybelline - their mascaras are perfect and their products are cheap but work well for daily use. I just gave birth and was needing a makeover, I was saving up for the one from Benefit (costs P1,700) so when I saw that Maybelline launched a similar and super cheap product (costs about P200?) I thought the heavens finally heard my prayers. This did nothing on my pores. They're still visible, up close, a meter away, in photos. The product makes the skin feel poreless, but not look poreless. Does nothing on fine lines or dry spots. This must have been designed for visually-impaired customers who want skin that feels poreless. I know it's cheap so it's understandable that it doesn't deliver, BUT it's Maybelline. MAYBELLINE! Maybelline let me down.

Consistency: Paste-like, smooth, thick
Price: About P200
Repurchase: No.
Promises delivered: Feel poreless
Promises not delivered: Look poreless

5. The Body Shop All-in-One Instablur


I got to try this product when I asked a pro makeup artist friend to work her magic on my face. I was still pretty heartbroken from the Baby Skin letdown so my standards were set pretty low when I tried this. This one's better than Maybelline because this at least visibly blurs the pores a little. Skin also feels poreless and smooth. The two actually have similar consistencies except this is a tad bit drier and more pasty. This promises a lot of things like shine control (I oiled up about an hour or two later than usual) and unifying skin tone (foundation does that well, thanks, I actually don't get how this intends to do that since this is transparent?!). But it's an overall good product, at least better than Maybelline. I am yet to try the coveted Porefessional so until then I'm holding out on declaring how good these pore-blurring products really are.

I just remembered I once used a pore product from the Body Shop back when primers weren't this big. It's from their tea tree oil line. I was young and wasn't into wearing foundations yet. I remember it being okay but I guess I just didn't really know what products like that were for. Anyway.

Consistency: Paste-like, thick
Price: About P800
Repurchase: Yes
Promises delivered: Blurs pores, smoothens skin
Promises not delivered: 12 hour shine control, blurs blemishes

6. Revlon Photoready Primer 


I got to try the Perfecting one from another pro makeup artist friend. Like my heartbreaking experience from Elianto, this product was also pulled out from the Philippine market, but at least Revlon had the decency to announce it beforehand so users could hoard and prepare for hibernating season. My MUA friend loves this product and uses it on all her clients. She bought three when Revlon announced it will no longer be available. It's similar to the Body Shop Instablur, and I can't really tell any difference between the two products other than their packaging. As for effects, though, both give the skin a satiny-feel but I gotta give it to Instablur for having oil control.

Consistency: Paste-like, smooth, creamy
Price: About P700
Repurchase: No.
Promises delivered: Smoothening
Promises not delivered: Blurs pores and lines

7. Quickfx No-Shine Mattifier




This costs P89 and this is the best I've tried so far. I've been seeing this in Watson's for possibly over a year before I finally bought one. I felt an initial aversion because of the cheap-looking packaging. The salicylic acid also scared me off. And I wasn't so sure about mattewax, it sounded comedogenic, reminds me so much of that sticky paste men put in their hair. This also looks like cosmetics sold in Bench, I'm not sure why I feel disinclined to think they'll work. (I'm a product snob yes, but you can't blame me, my skin is really just sensitive and has a mind of its own, when it doesn't like a product it makes sure I know in very unforgiving ways). 

"Absorbs oil to control shine for a smooth, matte finish, conceals fine lines and pores for visibly radiant skin instantly. A light moisturizer and helps hide imperfections such as fine lines and pores while providing an exceptional smooth matte finish. Prevents and treats pimples without drying out the skin."

Their packaging claims do not exaggerate. The product truly delivers. I was amazed myself. See, after an entire year of ignoring this product, I only bothered to give it a try when two fellow makeup workshop participants told me that this is what they use on their clients. I was doubtful at first because they were also raving about Maybelline Baby Skin, which as you know, did not sit well with me. It's been 2 months since I purchased this and I still have about 1/4 of the product left considering I use this every time I'm in makeup, which is about 3-4 times a week. For P89, my pores, lines, dry spots, and general roughness are minimized. I also like that this blends well with any foundation or BB Cream I use. I also did not break out considering it has one too many impossible-to-pronounce ingredients. It is lightweight, does not feel sticky or heavy or cement-like at all. I think I've found my HG primer. 

Consistency: Paste-like, smooth, creamy
Price: P89!!!
Repurchase: YES!!!
Promises delivered: See paragraph before the last ^
Promises not delivered: The "radiant skin" bit? It mattifies skin so radiance is zero. Forgivable.

My eyes are still set on Benefit Porefessional, mainly because of the raves, but the P1,700 it'll cost me is the same amount of money I could be spending on a good facial treatment which could actually do something about my pores and not just bury them temporarily under a product. Although, I'm still waiting for a miracle, a literal miracle - the Elianto Miracle UV BB Balm. I still cry tears of joy whenever I remember how good it made my skin look. Quick FX is a good enough consolation for now. I look forward to the day when I will never have to wear a primer or a magic balm to face the world. Makeup is fun and all, but it's what's underneath all that that truly matters - well both literally and figuratively.

Wednesday, May 18, 2016

The Power of Makeup - Paul Unating

There's a local make up artist I've been following lately. He is a miracle worker. To say he's amazing is an understatement. He understands beauty more than the veterans in the field, you don't need to be an expert makeup artist or a pageant judge to be able to tell - one look at his portfolio or at a single photo of his work and you'll know he's a genius.

That nose line! So immaculate! So divine!
It doesn't look like a floating bridge - something MOST Filipino makeup artists need to be told
 NOT to plaster on people's faces!

I first learned about him at a Facebook make up group, possibly The Make Up Revolution (I'm not quite sure, I'm a member of a dozen beauty-related groups). They were raving about this untrained child prodigy, who was 17 at that time, this was just a couple of months ago, he's now 18 - still a child. His works put the works of learned, experienced, moneyed, Europe/US-trained makeup artists to shame. I was instantly hooked. What this loud, flamboyant, young thing has is TALENT. Raw, pure, unadulterated talent.

His name is Paul Unating.

You can follow him here: Paul Unating's Personal Facebook account.

Photo from Paul Unating's Instagram account
He started as a hobbyist. A typical millenial who lived on social media. He shared his works, some on his own face as he transforms ala Nikki Minaj. Soon, and by soon I mean just a matter of a few months, clients started pouring in. I was about 3 weeks into following him when he shared his humble bewilderment when these two sisters booked him:


Yep. That's Kristine and Kathleen Hermosa. The literal muy hermosa sisters.

Paul Unating, being hermosa himself.

These are some of his best works:






Photos from Paul Unating's Facebook.

As you can clearly see, this guy's born to do makeup. He's an artist, not just some trained dude with a signature brush and an expensive palette. He found himself in hot water lately as several Facebook groups started using his portfolio to make fun of women who wear makeup: 

Screenshot from Talk Shit Facebook page.

What made me admire Paul is this:


In spite of the vicious intentions of the admins of the page, Paul, in his humility, chose to not take it against them and thanked them instead. You may say he knows that bad publicity is still good publicity. Or that he could have at least defended his models. But you see, from what little I know of Paul from months of following him online, he's a meek sheep who only wants to do what he does best, which is to make women pretty. He knows his limits and he knows where all his blessings are from, he has no time to waste on internet crap.

Now, now, something for the rest of us internet users. Here's the thing - Before and After Makeup Transformations are marketing tricks. The "Before" photos are strategically shot to make the models look plain and unattractive. Often, when women, even models or especially models, are not wearing makeup and are asked to pose for a photo, they start to shrink and their lack of confidence translate onto a bad photograph. Ask any woman, even the prettiest you know, to remove all her makeup, get her hair off her face, to pose for a photo under lighting that highlights every bump, every line, every scar, let's see how prettily and confidently she'll be smiling.

The goal of every "Transformation" photo is to widen the gap between the Before and After. An artist can either exaggerate the After or exaggerate the Before. Exaggerating the After can often look... well, too good to be true. Filters and Photoshop are discouraged in the makeup industry. Therefore, to give a Transformation more impact, artists have no choice but to exaggerate the Before - something not a lot of models know. Most of the models who agree to pose for Transformations are newbies or Class Bs (please do not take offense, model classes are usually mobile, Class As usually begin as Class Bs) and are not all that informed that their Before face might be used against them.

Also, what is up with people actually thinking that beautiful women are ALWAYS always flawless and plakado? Men do not suffer from monthly fluctuating hormones, they do not deal with period acne, hairfall, rashes, bloating, eye bags, hormone-related allergic sensitivity, etc., that women have to deal with all the time. A woman who's flawless last week can be pizza faced this week and be normal next week. Same woman can take a picture last week, post it this week and have men calling her names for "pretending to be someone she's not." LOL no, seriously, what is up with men and their ignorance? Women have existed for as long as men have, how can men miss this vital information about women?
That being said, I am yet to truly have a conviction about how much "transforming" makeup is dishonest makeup. I think there truly is a fine line between putting on makeup to cover blemishes that would otherwise not be there if not for an unfortunate food sensitivity or a thesis all-nighter, and putting on makeup that makes you look like someone you're not. I think the first one is fine for as long as you still look like yourself, just healthier and better-rested and better-nourished; and the other borders on blatantly lying to the world about who you truly are. My problem is in locating where that fine line is. I think it's blurred for the most part. I think it's also highly subjective. There are people who are intolerant, that no matter how little makeup you put on, you are, in their minds, a big fat liar. And then there are people, usually from the transgender circles who believe you can put on as much makeup as you want, how you want to look is how you truly look. It's rather sad how much hatred is being spurred when we can all just be happy and pretty.

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Makeup Workshop Lessons: Eye Shadow Design

I have a love-hate relationship with my eyes. Since I am yet to decide if I want my identity known by the strangers of the internet, I shall keep my face a secret for now. I might later decide to reveal my face, I am still convincing myself it's worth the hassle. For the meantime, I shall post photos of this lovely woman whose eyes look exactly like mine:


Our eyes are "uso" at the moment. Well, at least for the past decade since the popularity of East Asian TV series like Meteor Garden and Koreanovelas and Jdoramas. I, of course, feel honored to have eyes that are currently glorified. Ten, twenty, fifty years from now though, when the trends have changed and society has begun disliking my eyes the way it glorified flat butts in the 80s and now mock and hate 'em... I am not sure if I am blessed at all. 

Especially that eyes like mine are filed under "PROBLEM EYES" in the makeup industry. Unlike our deep-set, multi-dimensional, large-eyed sisters, we have a flat, uninteresting canvass that doesn't hold much color. I've had about a dozen horror stories from Makeup Artists who did my face and tried AGAINST MY WILL to put normal eye makeup on my non-normal eyes, resulting in me looking like a panda/witch/kontrabida, like sooo:

What is up with makeup artists not listening to their clients when they say a look doesn't work for them? See, this is perhaps my biggest makeup advocacy. I want women to speak up and not just silently begrudge their makeup artists. We, as clients, have worn our faces for the past decades, no amount of makeup training can make makeup artists better acquainted than us in establishing what works and what doesn't for our specific face. No means no. I have walked out of a wedding and a pageant all because I ended up looking horrible because makeup artists wouldn't listen when I tell them my face has a way of looking like a witch at the slightest hint of dark eyeliner/eye shadow and over-concealing of the eye area. You think I'm exaggerating. Here's the normally breathtaking Leighton Meester, after an encounter with a savage makeup artist:


We don't share the same eye issue, but this is what happens when somebody fucks up your eyes. Wouldn't you walk out on a pageant/wedding too if somebody did this to your face? 

Leighton Meester, done right:

I shall discuss proper eye makeup for Monolids/Hooded/Problem Eyes at a different post. What we learned from the workshop is basic eye makeup for generally normal eyes with considerable crease area and depth. Here are the steps:




1. Prep eyes. Apply PRIMER. This is important for us Filipinos, we tend to have oily or sweaty eye lids, thanks to our hot weather and humidity. Set primer with NEUTRAL EYE SHADOW. 

2. To enlarge small eyes, use LIGHT BROWN EYE SHADOW WITH SHIMMER. The idea is to draw light to the eyes to enlarge the area. To minimize the appearance of large or protruding eyes, use MATTE EYE SHADOW.

3. Apply the proper type of eye shadow by PRESSING THE PIGMENT UPWARDS instead of brushing the powder on the eye lid. As in the photo above (took it from the internet, the handouts from the workshop are blurry), apply A POP OF COLOR - whichever is best suited for the client's complexion, eye color, event, and age - at the outer 1/3 of the eye lid. 

4. Apply a DARK SHADE at the crease of the eye

5. Apply a LIGHT/ SHIMMERY SHADE at the middle area of the eye. Blend, blend, blend away all harsh lines and intersections. 

6. Apply HIGHLIGHTER at the brow bone (IF it's not too protruded, this is rare in Filipino faces, though) and at the inner corner of the eyes. 

7. Eye shadow (pop of color/dark/light shade) may be applied to the lower eye area if the look is event- and age-appropriate and suited to the client's features.

8. Use black EYE LINER at the upper lashes. Thickness should depend on the size and intensity of the eyes. The bigger and rounder the eyes, the thicker the liner. Smaller eyes don't look good with thick eye liner. Apply eye liner at the bottom lashes if a more intense look is the goal. WHITE EYE LINER may be applied to open up the eyes and make them look brighter.

9. CURL LASHES (cult fave Shu Uemura Eye Lash Curlers are recommended, I use Revlon, they work just as well) and apply MASCARA. Apply mascara at the lower lashes too if client has no bag and circle issues. Apply FALSIES and then apply loads of mascara to make the falsies stick to the lashes.

Ms. Donna's final product:



I'm not really a big fan of the look. The girl and I have similar eyes, and this look made her look old and intimidating. This normally looks awesome on Latina, Caucasian, or Persian eyes, on stage, in photos, and up close in real life. But then again, it's probably just me and my biased views. My cousin did this same look on my face during the workshop, and I ended up going to the bathroom to wash it off. I didn't like looking scary. My beauty peg had always been fresh, light, and blooming, I guess it's because it's the only kind of look that works for us Chinitas. I'll leave you with my beauty pegs:





Parting words to makeup artists ~ up there is how you do Chinita eyes, down below is how you do NORMAL eyes. See how Chinita eyes are special and look good when they're not forced to look like they're deeper-set/wider/larger? Learn to respect faces for what they are.